I entered Tajikistan on foot by crossing the land border from Uzbekistan. From Samarkand you can either take a taxi or a marshrutka for a more authentic experience towards Jartepa Border Control. The journey is roughly 40-50 km from Samarkand. Once there, complete the Uzbek immigration at Jartepa, walk across the neutral zone and enter Tajikistan through Sarazm. On the Tajik side, taxis are available for the short journey to Panjakent. Super easy!

When me and my partner arrived at the Jartepa Border early in the morning, the queue was already long. Looking at the number of people waiting, I could only imagine that many of them had been there for quite some time. We already had our Tajikistan visas arranged online in advance and printed out ready to show the officials.We quitely joined the back of the line, expecting to wait our turn. But then something completely unexpected happened. As soon as the locals noticed us – clearly two Western tourists – people throughout the queue started insisting that we go straight to the front and cross before them. At first we politely refused, but they simply wouldn’t take no for an answer. So, eventually, we gave in. This just wouldn’t happen in the West. And what an incredible first impression of Tajikistan. I hadn’t even officially entered the country yet, and already I felt so welcomed.

Panjakent: the Pompeii of Central Asia

Panjakent may not be the most polished city I have visited, but that’s exactly what makes it so much fun – raw, authentic and full of surprises. For me, it was the perfect introduction to Tajikistan.

Once an important city on the ancient Silk Road, today Panjakent is a mix of colourful markets, friendly locals, Soviet-era streets and mountain scenery with the Fann Mountains providing a dramatic backdrop.

Just outside of modern Panjakent lies Old Panjakent, the Pompeii of Central Asia. Once a thriving Sogdian city on the ancient Silk Road, Panjakent flourished between the 5th and 8th centuries. Wealthy merchants, craftsmen and nobles lived here among grand houses, temples, markets and a fortified citadel. The city was eventually adandoned in the 8thcentury, leaving its remains buried for centuries. Today, you can wander through the ancient streets and ruins, imagining what life was like here more than 1,300 years ago. This place is definitely one of Tajikistan’s hidden gems, a fascinating glimpse into a lost Silk Road civilisation. 

Hiking in the Fann Mountains near Artuch.

While in Samarkand, we arranged a hiking trip through the Fann Mountains in Tajikistan, including an overnight stay in a tent by Lake Kulikalon. As mentioned earlier, we made our own way from Samarkand to Panjakent and spent the day exploring the city at our own pace.

The communication between the Samarkand travel office and our Tajik guides was excellent, and everything was very well organised.

The following morning, we were up bright and early and met our guides, who picked us up from our hotel in Panjakent and took us into the Fann Mountains. This is where the real adventure began!

From Panjakent our guides drove us to Artuch, a small alpine village and popular trekking base in Tajikistan’s Fann Mountains. Artuch sits at roughly 2,200 metres above sea level and is surrounded by dramatic peaks, alpine valleys and mountain lakes. It is best known as the starting point for some of the Fann Mountains’ most beautiful hikes, including the route we took towards Lake Kulikalon and Chimtarga, one of the highest peaks in the range. Artuch truly felt like the perfect place to leave the outside world behind and head into the wilderness. 

After almost a full day of hiking, we finally reached Lake Kulikalon and what a sight to reward all those hours on the trail! At this point, we were around 2,850 metres above sea level, and while we took in the incredible surroundings, our guides got to work setting up our tents for the night. One of our guides was also our chef for the evening, who prepared us a traditional Tajik dinner. And what a unique dining experience it was, enjoying our Tajik dinner, while soaking up the incredible mountain surroundings and taking in the fresh mountain air.

The following morning, we climbed higher into the Fann Mountains, reaching around 3,400 metres above sea level, with spectacular views overlooking Chukrak Peak. After taking in the views, we began our descent back towards Artuch. From there, we hopped in the car and made our way back to Panjakent and stayed one more night there. The next day, we made our way back to Samarkand for a short rail journey back to Tashkent International Airport, bringing another unforgettable journey to an end.